TIMBER CREEK ACRES CRATES

You must predetermine whether you prefer a dog or bitch and which breeder you prefer before you begin your quest. Age is also a factor. Are you going to buy a slightly older puppy, or a 7-8 week old prospect? Rescue dogs are able to compete in obedience, if the AKC papers are available, or if an ILP listing can be obtained form AKC. An ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) is simply a number assigned to a dog that has the basic looks of a specific breed, but the dog may NOT compete in conformation classes. Individual choice and a little boning up on Lineage and Temperament would be a good start. Make it your business to know the basics. A book that comes highly recommended is "The Right Dog For You" by Daniel F. Tortora, Ph.D. It presents profiles for the prospective puppy buyer to complete helping them to choose the temperament size and intelligence level to suit their needs.

Obedience training begins with picking the right puppy. You must start with a conformationally correct animal. Due to the great size of Danes, it is imperative to start with the "right stuff". There is a saying breeders like to quote, True movement equates to structural perfection. This does not necessarily mean that the dog must be Champion material. It is though, a must to have the correct angles of shoulder, pastern, hock and stifle, as well as correct length of back. The ideal body type for obedience is a short-coupled and squarely built one. This is necessary to facilitate nice movement and soundness while working, as well as flexibility and ease of sitting. How does the puppy sit? Does it tuck it's legs neatly under it's body, or sit with hind legs spraddled like a frog? If it's the latter or any variation of a neat tuck, work will need to be done to "un-train" natural posture.

Of extreme importance, are two x-ray tests for proper hip structure, either of which is an accurate analysis of hip soundness. OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) (Results are guaranteed only after 2 years of age) or Penn-Hip (can be done anytime after 6 months) test any dog before graduating to open obedience work, to protect hips and prevent further problems which may occur in a dysplastic dog. Most veterinarians can perform OFA testing. Penn Hip is just gaining popularity, and it is a little more difficult to find qualified Penn Hip Veterinarians at present. To assure the best possible chances of hip health, the parents of any obedience prospect puppy should be Penn Hip or OFA certified.

Next comes Testing for Trainability, which consists of a series of tests which can be adjusted according to age and circumstance for each puppy. The optimum time for administering this test, is 49 days, though it should be given several times during the first 8 to 12 weeks of life. The test is designed to determine willingness and trust. Willingness to please is more important than intelligence, where obedience training is concerned, although brains are a priority as well. Sometimes you can kill yourself training an extremely intelligent dog, only to have the dog totally ignore or out-think you. This makes it imperative to be constantly correcting or forcing your dog. A dog who is willing to please you despite a minor shortcoming in the smarts department, can be a joy to work with (not to mention the benefit of having a dog who looks at you as if the world revolves around you) and makes training a fun experience.

The above mentioned testing will be completely covered in a forthcoming article. I will give a short description of some of the elements involved, here. Bear in mind that one test is not a fair evaluation of any puppies potential.

(This testing is ideally performed by a person who is a stranger to the litter.)

Domination / Submission

This test will evaluate the puppies ability to accept domination. Place the puppy on its' back and hold in position securely. Does the puppy protest? For how long? Does the puppy hold a grudge after you release it? Ideally of course, the struggle is brief and the puppy forgives you soon after. The worst case scenario, the puppy urinates.

Noise Test

Here we are looking for inquisitiveness and reaction to unfamiliar noises with no physical threat. Any sources of loud noise, without physical threat, such as banging pots together, rattling chains or squeaking toys are all options. The ideal response is an investigative sniff or two. The worst response is fright-running and hiding. This is done one puppy at a time, or in groups of two or three.

Foreign Object Test

Done in the nesting box, this exercise will test for curiosity and/or fear. Place unfamiliar objects in the box with the puppies, and note which puppies approach first and/or ignore the object. The ideal reaction is one of initial curiosity, then acceptance.

Fetch and Retrieve

Pretty much self-explanatory, the object here is to test for the dawning of retrieval behavior. Done individually, use a familiar toy and see if the puppy will pick up ,carry and ultimately return an object to you.

Stamina Test / Motivation Test

This test, designed to test the puppies' motivation and stamina, involves coaxing the puppy up a securely placed piece of 1' X 4' board, blocked off at the sides to prohibit escape. The board is elevated slightly at one end, (6-8 inches) and the puppy is placed at the low end. By calling and clapping of hands the pup is coaxed up the ramp. The better a puppy responds to stimuli and tries to reach you, the more desire he has to please. This exercise is done individually.

The Call Back

This is a variation of the Stamina Test, without the stress of climbing. Sit on the floor in front of one puppy, using an excited happy voice to call the puppy to you. The assistance of a second party to hold the puppy while you work him is of help.

This is not a complete list, but just a condensed example of one of many tests that are helpful in picking a puppy for obedience.

Obedience training can make a Breed Champion dog a great all-around dog, and a family pet safer and more enjoyable. The quote "A well rounded dog has a title at both ends" is very true. There is a theory that training a Conformation dog in obedience may not be compatible with training for the show circuit. Indeed obedience training will make for a much easier to handle champion to be. They are two different types of training, and with the requisite equipment change, a dog knows to "change gears". The size of a Great Dane can be an asset when obedience training. From an early age the dog is large and easy to handle. At his adult height, attention training and eye contact are easy because his head is "right there"!

In closing this article, I would like to welcome any questions involving training and or obedience work. Your input will make this web page more useful to everyone. Letters that I feel would be of interest to the readers of this Web Site will be answered here. Until next time, keep those training sessions short and HAPPY!

Lyn Richards danelady@doglogic.com

Obedience training starts in the whelping box. You have to depend upon the breeder from which you purchase your puppy to provide these basics. If you are well acquainted with the breeder, you are more likely to be able to positively affect the early training of your puppy. You will also be better able to make an educated choice of puppy, based on your knowledge of each individual pup in that litter.

 Up to three weeks (21 days) of age, studies have shown that puppies are able to absorb very little in the way of education, they are unaware of much except mom, food and sleep. Elimination is done by reflex at this point. This changes between 21 and 28 days of life. Puppies begin to leave the blankets and look for a corner in which to eliminate. They become acutely aware of their environment, and are extremely sensitive to stimuli. In fact, any experiences at this stage, (to the negative or positive) will more profoundly affect the puppy than at any other point in its life. This is where you and the breeder can help shape your puppy's mind and life.

 Crate training and minor obedience training can actually begin at this age. A large wire crate (big enough to hold all the puppies) padded with blankets is introduced to the whelping box. Papers are layered on the floor around the crate (as they were around the blankets at the beginning). As the puppies explore and roam, they will choose to sleep in the crate, and eliminate on the paper.

 Puppies can be handled and stacked at four weeks, and it is great for them to be socialized and handled starting at this point. When stacking, remove a puppy from the litter. Place the pup in position, hold in position gently for just a couple of seconds using the "stay" command quietly. Praise softly and release. Make it a fun, play kind of thing. Calling the puppies as a group, clapping the hands and using a happy voice, is an introduction to the "come" command. This is effective as a pre-training method if the puppies can be induced to come to the caller by a second party urging them forward gently, and if lots of praise is used. They can learn lots of basic skills at 4-6 weeks, which will save the owner and handler (and also the pup) the headaches and frustration that may occur, if taught at a later age.

 Great Danes are by nature a more laid back personality type, and are stubborn as well as gentle and sensitive. This must be considered when training a Dane puppy. While there are exceptions, the norm prevails and common sense will serve to guide you. Bear in mind that Danes grow quickly, so it is vital that the puppy respect the authority and dominance of the trainer/owner early on, as well as admire and love him/her. This means that praise and consistency are vital ingredients in the training recipe. The following guidelines will help foster admiration, respect and love in your new obedience pup once you bring him home.

Basic Guidelines

• Don't Use Punishment,
• show Patience and Confidence
• Timing and Consistency,
• use Repetition
• Rewards and Praise,
• Keep it Simple
• Allow the pup to Think for Itself,
• Talk to the Pup
• Work for Short Periods,
• Hands Off

 Punishment as a training aid does not foster the willingness to please and excitement for work, which come with positive reenforcement and treats. Any negative stimuli should be limited to using the word "no" and blocking (using the hands) the puppy's negative actions. Hitting and physical abuse of any sort are unnecessary in a young pup, and should not be used unless under the most extenuating circumstances in an older dog.
 

Timing and Consistency:

Remember that timing is everything. Coordination of the trainers movements and corrections is directly related to the ability of the puppy to comprehend the lesson he is being taught. It is important to make him understand that the corrections given are a direct result of his behavior, and will not take place if he does as the trainer wishes. For example, if a puppy is given the command "come" while in another room chewing on a toy, he is unlikely to respond. If no one brings him to the trainer on the command "come" he will learn the word "come" is synonymous with "ignore." On the other hand, the puppy is only told "come" under controlled circumstances, while on leash and in the hands of the trainer. He is gently pulled towards the trainer with praise and learns that "come" always means to approach the trainer, and that to do so brings praise.

Rewards and Praise:

Allow the Pup to Think for Itself:

Work for Short Periods:

This is pretty self explanatory. Puppies have very short attention spans. Keeping sessions short (10 minutes) and doing them frequently (2-3 time daily) ensures that the trainer will have the full attention of the pup, and that the dog will not grow bored. Again, working for short periods will be rewarding, too.

Repetition:

Patience and Confidence:

Keep it Simple:

Doing easy exercises one at a time is a much simpler concept for a puppy than learning a whole exercise in one sitting. The sit-stay for example, is not taught all at once, but broken down into its component parts. First a pup must learn to sit reliably, on its own, then the trainer can add movement away from the pup. Once that part is learned, the trainer can make the distance between himself and the pup greater and greater. Then he can add time away from the pup as a factor. Eventually, the pup learns that no matter how far and how long the trainer is gone, he must stay in the position originally placed, until he is released.
 

Talk to the Pup:

Hands Off:

 Please bear in mind that I write these articles from personal experience, and from observations I have made while working and training. I have written this article as a tool that you may use to help your own training program, and to embellish what you have already found to work for you. I am a strong believer in NOT using punishment for training (ie: Ear Pinching) except in extreme cases. This does not mean it may not work for someone else and I will not criticize its use, only give you examples of what I find as alternate choices to try first. Nothing is written in stone and I would not attempt to be the first to tell you otherwise.

 Danes have the potential to be great at Tracking, Agility, Fly Ball, Obedience and Breed Champions too! In future articles I will try to present information to help you make your Dane the best he can be! Till the next time, keep those training sessions short and happy!
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Mail Lynnie!

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PUP CHEWING / BITE INHIBITION
by Lyn Richards

When pups play, they spend much of their time biting and chewing each other. This is normal puppy behavior. Human skin is much more sensitive that of a pup, and it really hurts when they bite us, so we must teach pups that it is unacceptable to continue this behavior in the human pack. Another reason for stopping this behavior, is that pups learn to "dominate" with this behavior as they get older, and this causes problems in the family pet home.

Puppies chew/play bite for many other reasons.  The most common one is that they cutting new teeth.  This is not only painful for the pup, but it can also be uncomfortable for the pup to have loose things hanging in his mouth!  Gnawing on things helps soothe the gums around the teeth, and loosen teeth as well. Many baby teeth are chewed and swallowed along with whatever they else the puppy is chewing, so do not be alarmed when they go "missing".

Most dogs will eventually outgrow misbehavior if it isn't allowed to develop. This includes inappropriate chewing and biting behaviors.

Anytime a puppy is biting/mouthing you, say "ouch" and immediately stop interacting with the pup. This is very important when playing with the pup, as well. This lets the puppy know that the biting is unacceptable, and attention stops when he does it. This method is called "OUCH" and  every family member should learn to do it. The "OUCH" noise is meant to startle him into stopping the chew/biting, then give him something he can chew on, and when he chews on the replacement object, praise him with "YES, good puppy!"

If you anticipate a bite (see it coming) say "OFF" before the puppy can mouth you. If the pup is trying to get you to play with him, ask yourself, "Do I have time to play  with the puppy now?" If you do, then do puppy push-ups first, or other positive 'lure and reward' training FIRST (for a few seconds), then play. If the answer is "No, I don't have time for the puppy, right now." Then you need to do a time out (crate the puppy), so the puppy can't continue to mouth you. Time outs are much more humane than yelling at a puppy.

It is necessary to teach a puppy NOT to mouth, and it is easy to do IF you make it FUN. Hold a handful of tiny treats, say "puppy take it" with a happy tone, and give the puppy one treat. Hide the rest of the treats in your closed fist and say "leave it" in that same happy tone. Once the pup waits a few seconds without touching your hand, say "puppy take it" and once again treat and praise. This exercise teaches the pup the command "leave it". You should also teach the pup to "wait" for a few seconds after his food bowl is placed on the floor, in conjunction with the "leave it" command, to avoid food dish aggression in the future.

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Hello friends, today we should give our furred friends a break and work on  ourselves. Today we'll try to Train the Trainer!

So many times we get wrapped up in "My dog won't do this" or "My dog always does that". We tend to forget the basic fact that many times we cause or at least allow problems to exist, due to our own neglect or ignorance. The training process involves  not only schooling our dogs, but constantly learning new methods of teaching ourselves to be better trainers. We must continuously learn better ways to communicate with our dog and to conduct ourselves during that process, so that our dog better understands the lesson we are trying to teach.

The items that are of importance here are: Leash Handling, Footwork, Timing and Use of Body Language and Facial Expression. These may seem to be primary details-THEY ARE! And because of this, they tend to be overlooked. How can we train our dog correctly if we don't THINK about what we are doing, and how it affects our partner (dog).

For instance, do you know the proper way to return to your dog or do turns? About turns, left and right turns can be done so that they flow like water, or they can look as clumsy as the first steps of a new colt. YOU can control the outcome by simply placing your feet properly. If you hold your leash incorrectly, telegraphing information to your dog through the leash becomes impossible. The information becomes garbled. Think of your leash as a water pipe, it must be free of kinks and loops to work well. I hope the following lessons will help make communications between you and your dog crystal clear.

How to Hold A Leash

Begin with your arms hanging loosely down in front of your legs, palms facing in.  In the right hand place the loop of the leash over the thumb, loose end crossing the palm. Fold the leash like an accordion, back and forth across the palm until it is a manageable length for working with your dog. The loose end should exit the right hand under the little finger. With your left hand make a loop of your thumb and index finger, run the leash through the loop and across the palm.  Wrap your other fingers loosely around the leash which should exit the left hand under the little finger. At this point there should be enough lead between your left hand and the dog's collar to form a small loop or J, which hangs just before the snap attaches to the collar.

This position is known generally as the "Control" or "Start" position. Use of this position or variations of this position, allows better control of the dog and prevents over control. Basically, the left hand makes corrections and the right hand is stationary when used properly. The leash travels loosely in the left hand and if the dog stays at heel, he is never corrected. This position allows the dog to work himself, instead of being hauled around at the end of a tight leash. It also allows for instant checks (short jerks) and releases, which coupled with the proper verbal messages teach the dog his lesson. The size of a dog will determine at what level of your body you hold your hands. When training a short dog, you might want to leave your hands down in front of your thighs. I am 5'1" and training a 36" Dane, so I find that holding my hands at waist height works for me. Use this as a guide only.

Timing

This can be so complicated, but it is so important. The importance of timing when working with a dog can be compared to a traffic jam. To prevent one, every thing must move together. The following is an example:

When you give the command "Apollo, Heel" you don't step off as soon as the word "Apollo" spills from your lips. If you do, he won't know what the next word was going to be (unless he's psychic), and you will end up jerking on his neck for no apparent reason. This can cause him to lack confidence, because he thinks he constantly is being corrected, which results in lagging. The proper sequence would be as follows:  Give the command "Apollo, Heel", wait a beat, then step off smartly. This allows time for the dog to hear the command , process the information and react.

When you and your dog are working with an instructor and are given a command such as "forward" how many times has your dog left the heel position without you? Anticipation of a command by your dog is a timing issue. When he hears the instructor give the command, he thinks he is doing well to move promptly. Work on using varied delays of between 1 and 5 seconds before responding to your instructors commands (please inform your instructor first!).

Use similar tactics when practicing Long Sits and Downs. In Novice Class, you are required to perform 1 minute Sits and 3 minute Downs.  NEVER do them for exactly the required amount of time. Your dog has an internal clock that remembers everything, if you perform an exercise the same way each time, at exactly 1 minute the dog will eventually release itself from a sit. This can be disastrous in the show ring. It is good practice to extend drill time to 3 to 3.5 minutes on the Long Sit and 5 to 5.5 minutes on the Long Down. This is done as a gradual process over time. The reasons for this are twofold, first Open Work requires the longer time and second, by varying the times by a half minute, your dog never expects a certain release time.

The same principal applies to returns and the finish after a recall. Do you always return to your dog after a long sit or down and release immediately? Don't! After a bit of time your dog will just get up instead of waiting to be released, this can result in non-qualifying scores in the ring and begin a habit that is hard to break. While practicing, occasionally return to your dog, and then leave again without releasing. Alternate this with a random 1 to 5 second lag in the time between returning to your dog and releasing him. It is also a good practice to  release your dog after a recall at least half of the time, instead of always having the dog return to heel position.

Using a metronome or music with a steady beat when doing Heel Work helps develop timing. This can keep your normal walk at a steady pace, keep your turns from being too fast or slow and acts as a centering point to keep your fasts faster, and your slows slower than your normal walk. Doubling or halving your pace makes changes of pace more noticeable and consistent. A quick change of pace is easier to achieve when listening to a beat as well. This keeps the dog on his toes and paying attention to you, rather than just slouching along.

Footwork

Footwork is a very detailed subject, and is an integral part of a successful performance in the obedience ring.

Your feet can be your biggest aid in training, or your dogs worst enemy. When executing turns, if you do not place your feet properly, you can trip your dog and cause permanently slow turns as an after effect. Conversely, you can turn too quickly even with your feet placed properly, thus causing either forging or lagging. When stepping off into a heeling pattern, be consistent. Always use the foot closest to your dog (left) to lead off. Don't saunter one time and then race off the next. When leaving your dog in any Stay position, use the leg away from your dog (right) to lead off. This gives you another effective aid to clue your dog in to the expected response, along with your words and/or hand signals. This is not cheating, it is a useful method of training and helps focus your dog when he is distracted.

When doing about turns, place your feet in a T position. To accomplish this turn smoothly, place the right foot first pointing straight ahead, next, place the left foot across the tip of your right toe (as in a T). Turn your right foot around so that the arch is behind the heel of your left foot, and then follow with the left. At this point you should be facing 180 degrees from your original direction. This sequence requires practice, but will keep your feet under you, instead of behind you which will trip your dog. It also has the added benefit of slowing your turn so that your dog has time to get around you. I think you can begin to see the importance of thinking about where and how you place your feet.

Body Language and Facial Expression

Finally, we come to the subtle art of saying much without speaking.  Our animals learn facial and body language from their moms, and inherit knowledge of this from their ancestors as instinct. We have to learn this language and adapt it as part of our training method. Just as we use the "pack" theory to maintain dominance and respect, so we may also incorporate our own body language as a teaching aid. Again, this is not cheating but using what resources are at hand to train our companions.

A smile is easy for a dog to read. When asking your dog to come, do you not unconsciously smile to make him feel welcome? Towering or leaning over your dog can be a threatening posture. While never uttering a word or raising a hand, it is possible to threaten. Do we wish to threaten when teaching? The answer is no.

In beginner class when asking your dog to sit in a "come front", you are taught to bend at the knee and keep your back erect while bringing the dog forward and into a sit. This is to help avoid a perceived threat. In the same way we can use subtle signals to aid in our teaching method. Raised eyebrows can be a signal to stay. A smile can be a signal to roll onto a hip and relax when your dog is in a long down. A negative expression is perceived as such, and a positive motion or expression is sensed as positive.

The reason that your arms must remain "hanging loosely by your sides" on a recall is that a subtle shift or motion could be understood by your dog as a hand signal. This signal would also fit into the non-verbal and body language category if subtle. There is no set of rules governing what a specific expression means, and you can tailor your training to your specific needs, but you must be consistent.

In closing, I would like to share the impressions I gathered while completing Apollo's Canadian CD over the Thanksgiving weekend (1994). The competition was tough, and the people were extremely friendly. The atmosphere was very different than that of an Obedience Competition in the US, maybe a little more relaxed. I will say that the Top Competitors and High Scorers were from the US. Apollo won High Dane in Trial on the second day of competition, against 3 other Danes who all qualified. The other Dane owners were standing there applauding when we got our award. And through it all, there was a distinct feeling of camaraderie and support among the competitors. Everyone cheered each other on, and when a team failed to qualify there was genuine sympathy. All in all, I enjoyed the experience and would recommend attempting a Canadian CD for all novices, if only for the relaxed atmosphere and fellowship.

Please send brags and questions or input, and I'll gladly include what I can. Until next time keep those training sessions Short and Happy!
danelady@doglogic.com

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Personality TraitsDog/Person Relationships    Dogs are Not People  Thinking Like a DogPack Relationships Confidence

I would like to depart from my regular discourse this month to discuss more mundane matters.

Personality Traits
In the course of training our dogs, we discover personality traits and quirks in our Danes that seem to be applicable to only our breed. Mine lean on everyone, wag their tails so hard that they bleed, live on couches and are picky eaters (unless it's junk food).

Did you know that in her first life my Blue Bitch Belle was a goat? It's true, and I can prove it! To date she has eaten (whole) 2 Velcro wrap nylon doggie snow boots, assorted bandages and numerous chew toys. She now has no more squeaky toys, has unstuffed virtually every toy we own, must wear an Elizabethan collar when bandaged and still takes up the whole couch! Yet, she still manages to find things to get into and remains her old self. She watches and chases birds right alongside the cats, and pretends to stalk mice.

My Black Male Apollo loves to visit the Vet, he must, because he races through the underbrush with great glee, constantly cutting himself. He also likes to find disgusting items to roll in or eat, and then throws them up on my new carpet. Did you ever see a Dane lick carpeting? Mine does! Just to irritate me. I'm sure of this because the vet say's his diet is balanced, I know he's not bored and the carpet is new.

My point here is this... Would my dogs get on the couch, or race through the underbrush if I did not allow it? If I keep a close eye on them, I can train some negative behaviors away.  If I confine them to a run, they will not cut themselves, wouldn't lick carpet, wouldn't chase birds and certainly wouldn't eat chewies if they were not given any. But, then they would be bored and lonely. Dogs are dogs, no matter what breed and size, they do and need dog things. We have to treat them as if the breed does not matter. The only exception to this would when dealing with specific traits that are bred into the breed you own, for the purpose of working. (i.e. Labs like to retrieve, Beagles are stubborn, etc.).

Dog / Person Relationships
The beginning of a good Dog/Person relationship is marked by Respect, Knowledge, Love and Confidence. These are attributes shared by both Dog and Owner, but must be fostered by the Owner.  In human child rearing, a good parent will never allow a young child to walk all over them, have their own way or behave inappropriately. A good parent sets limits and makes rules. In the same way, a good dog owner will establish dominance and trust with a dog. The rules set down when the pup is young, color the remainder of the relationship between dog and owner. Of course any major breach of trust or acts of cruelty will forever mar the relationship as well.

Training your dog is a learning process, and risk taking is part of that process. Therefore, we cannot be unbending and expect our dogs to live a sterile life in a dog run, free of fun and joy. I believe strongly that my dogs are happy and well adjusted. If I am diligent in my care taking, I can avoid disasters, yet allow my dogs to be dogs.

Dogs Are Not People
They are NOT people! As much as we like to attribute human emotion and traits to our fine furry friends, they are dogs and like to do dog things. They think differently than we do. We know that the love we feel for them certainly does not resemble the love they feel for us. Though we need each other, they depend on us for their health and survival, we depend upon them in a different manner. We have to remember that no matter how cute, smart and lovable our dog is and will be, he is still first and foremost an animal. Our role as owners is to provide a safe, secure and structured environment for our new pet. This formula includes love, discipline and training.

Thinking Like a Dog
When correcting a child's indiscretion, waiting a few minutes is OK because a child still remembers the deed. When giving a dog correction,  we must catch him in the act of committing an incorrect deed. Reproof given 5 or 10 minutes later is useless, as their minds are in another location by then and they DON'T REMEMBER.

It takes a while to grasp this concept. Many times I find myself saying, but I just TOLD you not to do that. Forget it, your dog already has! Instead, concentrate on positive re-enforcement and preventive maintenance. Don't leave the dog alone in a place where he can get into trouble. Don't underfeed or feed a poorly balanced diet so that he is hungry and chews inappropriate things. Exercise him well so that he does not have excess energy and pay him as much attention as possible, because that's what he craves.

Pack Relationships
In packs, dogs always look to the leader for attention and protection. That's your number one job. If you can fill that role, then training will come easily. A secure dog will follow your lead no matter where you go, because he trusts you. Treating him in a way he does not understand will undermine this goal. Try to think like a dog and treat him like a dog. This includes domination and respect issues, which we discussed in earlier articles. Confidence in yourself is necessary in building trust with your dog. He won't trust you if you don't. Would you get in the car with a driver who told you that he had never driven? Not me.

Confidence
A good example of  this occurred this week while I was in training with my puppy. Another girl in class (we'll call her Fran) was trying to teach her 6 month puppy to sit-stay. Fran is a new dog owner and was quite uncomfortable with handling the leash and had little confidence in herself. As a result, when placing the pup in a sit she had trouble coordinating her hand/ body position and the pup squirmed away and would not sit straight, even to the point of leaving the stay.  Another more experienced student offered to help her, and the puppy sat well when placed, and stayed even when tested by placing gentle pressure on the lead. The experienced student did a return around the puppy and the pup never moved. The leash was given back to Fran, and she was coached a little on showing confidence even when none was felt, as well as showed a better way to handle her leash. Her next attempt at a sit stay was better than before, but not great. She was instructed by the teacher to practice leash handling only on a stationary object before the next lesson, as well as her regular homework with the pup. The following week, Fran was able to better handle herself and her leash, so she was free to concentrate on her puppy and was much more successful, thus she felt more confidence and the pup gave her more feedback.

The goal here again is trust. Your dog must know that you will never let him down. The dog is very forgiving in nature, and will trust you even if you make mistakes, as long as you are consistently trustworthy. Since he doesn't know what you are teaching him, if you make a mistake he won't know that either. Watch what you do, exude confidence and be consistent. Your dog will love you for it. Until next time, keep those training sessions Short and Happy!

Lyn Richards, copyright 1995 danelady@doglogic.com
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Topics:

Objects of AttractionStationary Attention    Positioning and Leash Handling    Eye ContactMoving Attention
 

Attention trained dogs are great to watch, and fun to work with. Obedience work is the most obvious beneficiary of Attention Training. But, Breed Handling also benefits greatly from an Attention Trained dog. Imagine not having to toss bait onto the ring floor, but quietly asking your dog for a stack? People are greatly impressed by a dog who watches its trainer, and the overall impression you create as a team in the ring can make the difference between a good score and  a Win! I can tell you a bit about the mechanics involved and what the training should do for you in the long run.

This article will deal with the concept of Attention. What we are looking for from our training is anticipation and excitement on the dogs part. A willingness to be right where you expect him to be and happiness about the whole process. On our part, we must pay TOTAL attention to our dog when we are working, and handle him properly. It is our responsibility to use our feet, hands and  body language correctly so that our dog clearly understands our intentions.

Objects of Attraction
Attention training begins with finding an "Object of Attraction" that will make your dog watch you. This object may be food, a squeaky toy or some other small item your dog will flip over. By this I mean, that short of a locomotive running him over, he'll keep this item in his sight at all times because he WANTS it.

The next step is finding a method of getting your dog UP, or excited. I use a rope toy of sufficient size to be  able to play roughly with my boy without losing fingers... A tug of war game or fetch and shake game will usually get him going and make his tail wag.

Stationary Attention
Since your dog won't have a clue what you are up to at this point, it is best to start Attention training ONLY while stationary. Not until you have his unwavering attention for three minutes with various distractions should you consider doing any heel work. If you already are doing heel work, lay off for a while and concentrate on other training such as downs, sits and other non-heeling exercises.

Begin your training sessions in a distraction free environment. The best way is several times a day for 5 minute sessions. Use new words for this exercise..Ready for Attention at Heel perhaps, or Watch Me. For heeling in motion, if you now use Heel use another word for this type of Head Up heeling. We want no association with the old head down heeling at this point.

So, start each training session by playing with your dog for a good 5 minutes or so to get him excited. Then gently break away from playing and go to heel position next to your dog and ask him to sit. Keep your body straight when doing any Attention training work. This means that your shoulders are square and you are facing in the same direction as your dog. The only part of you that should be looking at your dog is your face.

Positioning and Leash Handling
Hold your leash (1-2 foot length) in your right hand close to your waist, above the dogs head. Hook your fingers in your waistband if needed until you get used to not moving your hand. Keep the leash taut, not tight and if your dog is tall, under his chin with the left hand on the leash.

Now that you are in the correct position, your goal is to GET and KEEP your dogs attention as long as you are in this position. From now on, you must never assume the heel position without expecting and GIVING complete attention. If you plan to gab or party while in the middle of working, release your dog, or place him in a down out of heel position.

Eye Contact
OK, lets get your dog to look you in the eyes. Sound simple? NOT! But with a little help from a toy or food, the going gets lots easier. I like thinly sliced hot dogs, well roasted in the Microwave, paper towel dried and frozen. A handful of these doesn't smell much or leave greasy marks on your clothes, but are mighty tasty to your dog and fit nicely in your mouth for storage. If you choose a toy, use a small squeaky that you can conceal easily in your hand. Let him see it and squeak it as his reward, then hide it when you want him to watch...Remember make this a fun GAME!

Standing in the correct heel position, hold a small handful of the tidbits in your left hand (right hand if your dog is really tall). Let him see one piece held between your thumb and index finger. Turn the palm of your hand out toward your dog and hold it at your eye level (so that he must look at your eyes to see the food) and keep it CLOSE TO YOUR BODY. (Remember to keep your body straight, shoulders in line with your dogs'.) Say Ready, Watch or whatever your word for attention will be. This will be your cue word later during your competitions, to get him up and ready to work, so get comfortable with it. Pass the food by your dogs nose to get his attention if necessary, and bring it back to eye level. Keeping your hand close to your body, lower the food just enough so that he has to R..E..A..C..H for it, release the food into his mouth and return your hand immediately to the starting position. The minute his eyes track back up to your face or immediately if they never left, Praise him with a real happy voice! Practice moving the food in your hand from your palm to finger tips quickly, with no breaks so that you can keep him on tiptoes at this point.

Repeat the ready, food, praise routine until you are down to the last piece of food in your hand. Separate the food rewards by a few seconds when you start. As you progress you will be able to stretch the time between showing him the treat and giving it to him longer and longer. You will be able to tell when your pushing it, so back off. The goal here is to keep his eyes on you. If you start to lose him, get his attention back then give him a reward immediately.

Praise here and each time he looks at your eyes is CRUCIAL! At the beginning ( for the first few weeks) do not correct for looking away..just bring the food by his nose and back to your face. Keep up a running conversation with him at this point. Use a happy light tone of voice, and lots of smiles. Praise with a very HAPPY voice when he looks you in the eye again.  The last piece of food should be given with much praise, then a release word such as OK! or Great! Use this word as a release word from now on. Play again at the end of each session for a short time and then let him go be a dog for a while.

Work with this until your dog will keep his eyes on yours for at least 20 seconds without requiring a piece of food to get his attention. Do not rush this stage please. Any mistakes we make here will cost you points and attention later.

Moving Attention
The next step, (in a few weeks) once you are sure he is watching you with FULL ATTENTION, is to rotate out in front of him toe to toe, while keeping is eyes on yours. Reward him when you are directly in front, keeping his attention. Feed him a few more bits keeping your hand close to your body, and then rotate back, still keeping his attention. If at any time you feel that you are losing attention, fall back a step or two get him back to where you want him, then move forward some more. Again, it is crucial you do not rush, this is the basis for everything you will teach from now on.

Don't rush it for now, just concentrate on maximizing the time between pieces of food, and keeping his eyes on you when you move. Keep those training sessions Short and Happy!
danelady@doglogic.com

Attention Training: Eye Contact; Methods, Corrections and Distractions

I would like to begin by pointing out the importance of consistency and enjoyment in the process of Attention training. These are invaluable tools in any training program, but the intensity of this type of program makes it very crucial. Eye contact is the key to this type of training. There are differing theories on finding the correct method of keeping that contact.

The three methods that I will cover are:

*FOOD

*VOICE

*TOYS

I will discuss my view of the merits and deficits of each one, and then explain the motivations, corrections and distractions that can be applied to all.
 

FOOD:
I believe any training method that requires props and items, is a method that lends itself to potential failure. This is only because all the food in the world if left OUTSIDE the ring, will not help you IN the ring. If food is used as a crutch, then the dog comes to depend on it. I use food only as a training aid and wean the dog from it quickly, substituting myself in its place. This is the way it should be done, and works fine in that context, but beware of using food all the time. Food is a strong motivator, and if properly used is very beneficial, but must be used with care. I have used food, and found it to work in many cases, but dislike having to use it. For some people it works great.

Food is a great "object of attraction" for many gastronomically oriented dogs, people too for that matter. If a dog does not seem to have sufficient interest in the trainer, food sometimes can make a big difference. Keeping hot dogs and liver at hand for easy access is messy at times, but can be made easier by baking liver cookies, and micro-waving and drying hot dogs and liver in small pieces. These items can be kept in the pocket for easy access, and broken into small enough pieces so that the dog does not spend valuable training time chewing and swallowing. I have the recipes for these and will include them at the end of this article.

VOICE:
My favorite, using one's voice as the "object of attraction" has many positives and few negatives (laryngitis?). I feel that the best motivator, one that is always with you and costs nothing, is you. A happy excited voice will make most dogs jump with joy literally, and it can be used all the time except while performing certain exercises in competition.

From the time you start training a puppy, your voice should be a welcome, joyous thing to your dog. Never call your dog to punish him. The dog will associate coming to you, and your voice, with unpleasantness. Go and get him for corrections if needed. From the high pitched happy "Heeere pup-pup puppy" he first hears as a baby, to the later "Watch Me" or "(name) Coooome" he hears as a teen and adult, your dog should thrill to your voice. You can help assure this with copious physical/verbal praise for correct response to commands, constant conversation with your dog while training and making EVERY training session a happy experience for BOTH of you. A whole lot of short sessions work much better than one too long, boring session.

One of the tricks taught me by my long time friend and instructor Carole Baikow, was singing to my puppy as he learned to heel. The rhythm of the tune keeps you focused and consistent, and the happy sound of your voice keeps him excited and moving. Granted, I did feel silly heeling around the ring singing "Intsy Wintsy Spider", but Apollo thought I was the cats meow. I still talk happy voice to him, and he still watches my face the whole time we work. My new puppy Belle doesn't agree with all that, and thinks I'm wacko-mondo with all that gooey talk, so I modify it to tones that she responds to.

I also like to have a radio playing in the ring while doing heel work. This of course comes later in Attention Training, but fits nicely here with the voice method. Allow me a little leeway here... The radio, when tuned to music with a steady, up-beat rhythm will assist you. It is easier to move at a consistent pace, and if you sing with the music, will help keep your dogs' attention on you. I used this in the riding ring while training horses, and it works as well on dogs.

If you don't want to sing, talk happy rap, or tell him he's a good puppy, or find some other high pitched happy voice thing to do all the time you work. Corrections can even be re-enforced in the same tone. When heeling around for instance, if your dog goes wide, a quick gentle tug to your leg with a - "Goooood Heeel" will win you a happy, relaxed, fairly painless correction.

OK, enough with the praise for voice, you get the point.

TOYS:
I like toys for use BEFORE the training session, to excite your dog and get him "Up". I dislike carrying a squeaky toy, ball or toy mouse while working, as it distracts me and, I feel, distracts the dog as well. I really want him to look at my eyes, not my hands, and at times a dog will be so interested in the toy that he will be watching for the HAND that holds the toy, and not the person who wields it.

If the proper procedures are followed, a toy may be used with great success to motivate an otherwise bored or hard to excite dog. Keeping the toy at the level of your eyes or hidden completely the WHOLE time you are using it is essential. Poor training can result from moving your hand up, then down, then to the side as your dog is watching the toy, not you. You are defeating the basic purpose of using the toy, which is to get him to hang on your every word and motion, seeing nothing but you and your eyes. Eventually, you will need to substitute your empty hand for the toy, more and more frequently,